Shaper's Spotlight:
June 2007 Issue
Wavelengths
Text and Photo by Michael Kew
A Wave Runs Through It
Owls hooted in darkness, frogs croaked in the marsh, wind swooshed loudly through the pines and gnarled cypress. At the campground it was a cold, heavy night—nights behind storms are always so, the sky impenetrable, moonless, starry, and with cold hands I held cold bottles of beer, drinking one after another, until finally the frogs and wind and roar of surf knocked me out.
At first light I smelled cow dung—the wind was offshore. I rose quickly and walked out to the beach, where large swell broke with mass confusion. There was no one around, no runners or dog walkers, no coffee drinkers, no fishermen, no surfers. It was six-thirty on a freezing Tuesday morning in late January, night mist still clinging to the beach, gulls huddling together at the mouth of Salmon Creek, flowing fast and fat with rain and brown farm silt.
East was a psychedelic sunrise, orange and pink swirls painting the sky above the ridges of Mount Roscoe and Irish Hill, the grassy slopes specked with silhouettes of sheep and black beef cattle. To the north was rocky coast easing eastward into these soft hills, unspoiled by homes or wineries, and to the south lay a thousand acres of sand dunes, rimming Bodega Harbor, leading into the low sheared mound of Mussel Point, piercing the Pacific at the south end of the two-mile-long beach.
Camping in winter eliminates creature comforts and outdoor cooking, instead replaced by hot smoky campfires, tipsy postprandial walks, rough slumber without good shelter. It is time best spent alone. And so driving along Highway 1 in winter too may harken of times preceding Sonoma’s chambers of commerce and expensive Sea Ranch homes, before the vintners and abalone pickers and gargantuan RVs, before elegant art galleries and bed-and-breakfast romance, before retirees and southerners en masse fled their suburban sprawl, which people actually needed to escape so they could revisit nature. But when the south was rural, why go north? It was much colder, much darker, vastly remote—decades ago, to Southern California surfers, Santa Barbara was a fringe, Santa Cruz was arctic, and nobody seemed to know what lay north of San Francisco.
That night I ate cold pizza and drank beer in fogbound darkness on the south bank of the Gualala River. The campground was flooded with rain beneath dripping redwoods, bordered by the fat river’s muffled rush. There was no noise from insects or animals—only water. I sat on a wet picnic table and watched the wide river when the fog broke, illuminated dimly despite the absence of moonlight.
Around three in the morning I woke thinking a jet airplane was landing nearby. It was heavy shorepound, the booming thundercrack funneled to my campsite along the river corridor. Since dusk the wind had died and the swell had hit—a giant westerly with a twenty-five-second period, strong and orderly, undoubtedly the winter’s best swell.
At dawn I parked in a pullout above the river, which was separated from the ocean by a narrow spit. The surf was huge, the sight impressive — because of the high tide and the beach’s severe drop-off, sets were slamming full-force onto the sand, immense wave energy accumulated over thousands of Pacific miles at last terminating in violent fashion.
Suddenly a rogue wave flooded the spit, scattering a flock of gulls and spilling into the river, the wake quickly forming a riverine version of what had created it. This chest-high river wave peeled flawlessly for dozens of yards in both directions before expiring into the riverbank, one of the most bizarre acts of nature that I had ever seen, in the middle of a Northern California river, an occurrence so rare it was an incredible stroke of luck to capture it on film.
From Scotland to Tahiti
By Chuck Graham
As one local continues to rise, another fends off mediocrity.
Ventura's Dane Reynolds has jumped from 41st to 3rd in the World Qualifying Series (WQS) in the last three 6 star events spanning the last two months. During the coldest stop on tour at the Thurso-Scotland O'Neill Highland Pro from April 24 - May 1, Reynolds finished equal 13th and earned another 1388 points toward qualifying for the ASP 2008 World Championchip Tour. Nathan Hedge (AUS) won in the frigid conditions.
So far this year, Reynolds has combined his freakish ability with competitive conformity, and it's serving him well on the globetrotting WQS.
The WCT hasn't been as kind to goofyfooter Bobby Martinez, as he contiues to struggle after three events. Last year's ASP Rookie of the Year and world number 5, has yet to surf out of the third round during his sophmore season, settling for three disappointing 17ths. The WCT counts each surfer's 8 best results out of 10, and with seven contests remaining the pressure continues to mount with each heat.
Last year Martinez won the Billabong Teahupoo, Tahiti event, his first WCT victory. This year he started off well, winning his first heat handily and advancing directly to round three. Conditions were marginal, looking more like a fun 2 to 3 foot day at Tarpits, instead of the gaping barrels associated with Teahupoo. In the third round Martinez lost to Luke Stedman (AUS), and now finds himself 25th after the third event with the Rip Curl Chile event on the horizon.
Damien Hobgood (USA) beat current number one, Mick Fanning (AUS) in the final with 30 seconds left in what was a dramatic come from behind vicotry.
Posted June 2007 Blue Edge Magazine. All rights reserved.
May 2007 Issue
Frank and Pat Curren/ Andrew Bennett
PAT & FRANK CURREN INTERVIEW
By Bill Tover
How old are you, and how many years have you been surfing?
Pat: 10 years old. I have been surfing for four years.
Frank: 12 years old. I have been surfing for four years.
Free surfing or competitive surfing?
Pat: Both. I like to free surf because you don’t have to be so nervous, and I like to compete because you win lots of prizes.
Frank: Both, but I like free surfing better because you can stay out in the water longer.
Do you compete in the NSSA?
Pat: Yes. I'm in the “Menehune” division.
Frank: Yeah. I'm also in the “Menehune” division.
Best contest results?
Pat: Volcom--1st place with lots of prizes.
Frank: Christian Surfing Association (2nd place).
Where have you traveled to for surf?
Pat: Australia, France, Panama and Hawai’i.
Frank: The same as Pat, but I surfed bigger waves.
Favorite surf spot in Santa Barbara?
Pat: Sandbar at the harbor. I own that wave.
Frank: The Pit on a good day. Pat doesn’t own that wave; I do!
Did you guys really surf four sessions in one day at Snapper Rocks?
Pat: Yup. It was really hollow, but crowded.
Frank: I liked the barrels, but not the crowd. They were very aggressive.
Favorite music?
Pat: My dad’s music.
Frank: Switchfoot
Last book that you read?
Pat: “How To Make Your Mom Happy By Doing What She Says”
Play music?
Pat: drums
Frank: guitar
Do you feel that there is a connection between your surfing and playing music?
Pat: Uh, yeah. I get amped when playing the drums and surfing big
Rivermouth!
Frank: Like when I play guitar, I get so amped just like when I drop in on Pat
into a macking, gaping left barrel!
Favorite surfers?
Pat: My dad, Taylor Knox, Kelly, Rob Machado and Erin Smith.
Frank: POPS, Ollie from Bali, Taylor Knox, Gramps and Rob Machado.
What was the heaviest wave you surfed this past winter?
Pat: Pipeline
Frank: V-land
Your WORST wipeout besides the one at Cortes Bank, 100 miles due east of San Diego?
Pat: Oh yeah, I remember that one. At the Pit, a guy shot his board at me as I was going over the falls, but I had my helmet on.
Frank: A gnarly one outside Ledbetter on a big day at a minus lowtide.
Do you guys stay fit by “cross training” like your coach, Brandon Smith?
Pat: Brandon WHO?
Frank: You mean, “Sponger Smith?”
What’s your favorite maneuver?
Pat: Barrel
Frank:Barrel
Have You learned anything from Uncle Joe?
Pat: He talks to me about my cutbacks.
Frank: Same thing, cutbacks
How about your dad?
Pat and Frank: Paddle hard and set your edge when you go in to the barrel.
Any last words?
Pat: Don’t sell your boards. Ever
***************************************************************************************************************
Making Strides: Andrew Benett
By Chuck Graham
Paddling out at dawn in the rivermouth at Rincon, there’s no mistaking the big redheaded kid pig-dogging it on a sand-sucking barrel. He resembles a young Luke Egan (former world #2), utilizing his size to his advantage.
However, it wasn’t until this past fall that 19 year old Andrew Bennett put it together in the NSSA, where he vaulted from 50th in the open season ratings to 5th in a matter of just a few contests.
"He’s a bit of a late bloomer," says his coach, Mike Lamm of the goofy-footer. "But I think in the next 18 months he’ll make some inroads."
Making Strides
So how do you explain jumping 45 placings in the open season ratings to 5th overall?
I’ve been working with Mike Lamm for over a year now. But after returning from Indo last September with a ankle injury, I missed the first NSSA and didn’t do well in the two that followed. So I trained really hard with Lamm, and last November I won my first open, got a second in another, and I’ve won a couple of Explorers since then.
How did you hurt your ankle?
Down at the Mentawais at Macaronis, I pulled into a barrel, and as I was coming out the lip cracked me and compressed me. It was the ankle on my back foot. The doctor told me I crushed my cartilage, strained ligaments and bruised the bone. I’ve been going to therapy, but I was back in the water after the first day.
How do you feel about your jump from 50th to 5th? Is this a big surprise to you?
It kind of was a surprise, but I’ve been working hard with Lamm, especially the mental approach. It’s been a goal of mine.
What sorts of things has Lamm been working with you on?
Real technical stuff. He basically gives you a real exact goal you’re trying to attain when you’re surfing; what the pros are doing, and what’s different about their approach. It’s a different way of thinking about how you surf.
I’ve seen you surf at Rincon, and thought you were a pretty good surfer, but you hadn’t put it together in the NSSA yet.
For a while I wasn’t. Then outside of contests, I put a lot of energy towards it, surfing in the type of contest surf we have to surf. I also got some really good boards from Robert Weiner, which was a change at the same time as my jump in the ratings.
Any other sponsors coming your way since your turnaround?
I’ve been getting clothes and wetsuits from O’neil.
What are your immediate plans?
Depending on the nationals, I’m already surfing WQS events this year, and I’ll do a lot more next year. Hopefully this will be my last year in the NSSA.
How has the WQS gone so far?
Those are tough. I’ve made it through a few heats, and at my age and experience, I’m pretty stoked. It makes you realize how many good surfers are out there.
Congratulations on your recent success, and good luck in the future.
Thanks.
Posted May 2007 Blue Edge Magazine. All rights reserved.
February 2007 Issue
Patina: An acquired change in the appearance of a surface
Joe Curren's art showing at "The Happening"
As I went through Branden Arroyan's recent shots of Joe Curren's work which showed at “The Happening Music Festival and Art Show,” I couldn't help but notice the distinct natural beauty of the frames surrounding Joe's black and white images. As it turns out, those frames were crafted special for the show, and with a whole lot of local soul.
Last year, while visiting a friend on the East Coast, Joe noticed a series of Peter Beard photos, an African Elephant and other safari animals, with rustic old wood framing the images black and white images. He was interested in the way the gray patina colored wood complimented the black and white prints, and wanted, to at some point, emulate the look for his own work.
When it comes to his photography, Joe enjoys being involved in the whole process, “It's fun being hands-on from the dark room to framing.” For the past three years Joe has been building frames between trips and late at night in the work shop. He'd taken an adult education framing class for one semester at city college to get the basics, and has spent some time in San Fransisco hanging with friend and master frame builder Peter Kirkeby. “He showed me how to make basic clean shadow boxes out of maple.”
For the close at hand project “The Happening” Joe called Gunner Tautrim and John Bircham of Sea Born Designs, who are experts in framing and using recycled wood. Joe recalled the Beard photos and told the two craftsmen his ideas and the look he was going for. The beautiful wood they used came from an old redwood fence which once surrounded one of the Beach Boys Mesa property in Santa Barbara. The frames were completed just in time for the show. “It was a group effort--they were building and I was putting everything together. It's a good feeling knowing exactly where the finished product came from.”
To check out more of Joe's work go to www.joecurrenphotograpy.com “The Happening” will continue on to New York and Japan. Joe is also involved with the films “Thread” and “One California Day.” He recently signed on with a Local company, Simple and will have his photography on his own organic signature shoe. You will also see new sponsor Redsand on his boards.
Posted February 2007 Blue Edge Magazine. All rights reserved.
June 2006 Issue
Rich Reed: Shaper's Profile
By Bill Tover
The name Rich Reed is synonymous with surfing. A true overall waterman, Rich was a member of Rabbit Kekai's Outrigger Canoe Club, and once surfed a 14 foot Hobbie Cat down a 15 foot wave at Himalaya's in Haleiwa, Hawaii. He also used to sail his 34 foot Trimaran a hundred miles of shore just so he could surf the boat on the long period groundswells. In 1966 at age 20, Rich, equipped with his boating and surfing experiences and his wife Diana, embarked across the blue Pacific to the Hawaiian Islands-- the land of Aloha--to test himself in one of the world's greatest oceanic and surfing arenas.
What were your first experiences in Hawaii?
My wife and I went to Hawaii in 1966. We based ourselves at Waikiki on the island of O’ahu where I immersed myself in the waves, paddling and surfing the popular, reef break called “Queens” where I was invited to work as a “beach boy” for the Outrigger Canoe Club, a low paying job, but in the Hawaiian culture, a very prestigious and highly recognized vocation. The infamous, Rabbit Kekai was our beach captain. To stay mentally and physically fit for our work, rescuing tourists on surfboards, paddle boards and catamarans, Rabbit insisted that we surf four hours a day, EVERY day. To be considered a “waterman” by the Hawaiians was one of my greatest experiences in Hawaii.
When did you become involved in shaping?
I returned to California in late 1966. Bob Haakenson started up the Spindrift surfboard company in 1967 and then I joined up with him as a shaper in 1968.
How did you become involved with creating the board blanks?
Around 1968, I joined my father-n-law, Lloyd Gist, and we started a company called California Foam in which we began “blowing” blanks. We were doing well, selling them from Santa Monica up to Santa Cruz. I continued with shaping while making the blanks until I decided to return to Hawaii.
Hawaii beckoned?
I returned with Corky Carrol to O’ahu equipped with two twin fins, a 6’6” and a 6’2”. They worked fine in four foot surf, but for larger surf I used my 7’2” and 8’ guns. Bear Miranden of La Jolla Surfboards was making long board twin fins during the late 60’s. They worked ok, but I preferred short boards for small waves and just took it upon myself to evolve the long board twin down to a short board twin. Upon my return, I was hired as a shaper by Surfline Hawaii shaping alongside Ben Aipa, Barry Kanaiaupuni, Ryan Dodson, Buddy Dumphy and Jerry Lopez for the next four years.
Times were changing, no?
The long boards were becoming shorter and thicker and having more rocker in the nose and tail making them that much more responsive in critical areas of the waves. The narrow, S Decks (7’6”-7’8” single fins) were representative of that time. With the big wave guns, the widest portion of the boards moved towards the nose thus enabling the surfer to control the board in front of the board’s midpoint, Shaun Tomson’s “S” turns in the tube at Backdoor and Lopez at Pipeline exemplified this.
Shaping with these Hawaiian legends must have been such an exciting and humbling experience?
Yeah! Shaping and riding the waves of the North Shore with these guys gave me such invaluable experience as a surfer and as a shaper learning all about the different templates that worked well in the Hawaiian surf.
What happened with Bob Haakenson and Spindrift Surfboards?
Bob came over to the islands to join me and we set up shop on the grounds of the church overlooking Waimea Bay. My shaping room was inside the church, schoolhouse. By 1975, I was back on the mainland. Bob eventually came back, and we continued with Spindrift Surfboards in Goleta until 1988.
Who was helping you to promote your board designs?
Around the early 80’s, I hooked up with a couple of New Jersey standouts by the name of Steve Dwyer and Bill Mellett. I also had Craig Comen and a young, fifteen year old girl by the name of Lisa Andersen.
Are you still shaping and surfing? How do you see the future of the surfboard design?
Yeah, I have been shaping some of my own boards, but I have been employed by Al Merrick since 1989. Polyurethane boards will remain popular due to their heavier weight, but the lighter epoxy boards will make some headway even though they are a bit too light and corky.
Posted June 2006 Blue Edge Magazine. All rights reserved.
April 2006 Issue
Women's Profiles: From the Mountains to the Seas
By Erynn Im, Naomi Bralver, and Helena Shaka
Kim Mearig
Professional Surfer
Kim Mearig was born in Apple Valley, but her family moved to Santa Barbara when she was only six months old. She started surfing when she was 12 and has now been surfing for around thirty years. In 2002, she was chosen Woman of the Year for the Huntington Beach Surfing Walk of Fame. After competing professionally for about 10 years, becoming the ASP Women’s World Champion in 1983 and accomplishing all the professional goals she had for herself, she now feels that it is easy to focus all her energy on raising her two children.
When Kim was younger, she found herself driven to be the best she could be at everything she tried. Her goal was to make a living out of something that she loved. So when she was 18 years old, she started surfing competitively. She surfed competitively for the next 10 years, and traveled all over the world. She signed a deal with OP that made her one of the highest paid female professionals on record.
Several years into retirement, Kim went back and won the OP pro, beating some of her main rivals. After that, she finally “got bored with it all” and decided to follow her other dream, which was to raise a family with her husband Brian. She now has two children, Justin who is 14, and Caitlin who is now 11.
As a stay at home mom, she says, “raising my kids well is my biggest focus.” When I asked her what she felt were some of her biggest victories in life, the first thing she said was having her two kids and keeping a healthy relationship with her husband, who she has been with since she was 18 years. Her and Brian have always been close. While she was traveling the world professionally, Brian would meet up with her in whatever country she was in, and they would travel and surf together.
Although Kim no longer surfs professionally, she is still out in the water as much as possible. Heads still turn when she's going down the line. She surfs just as well as she ever did, and she continues to remain a positive force in the water and an inspiration to aspiring women surfers everywhere.
Lori Rafferty
SB’s original pro wind-surfer and record-setter
Known as the “Speed Queen,” Lori Rafferty is all about timing. Her mantra is to take advantage of opportunities and to be in the right place at the right time. She first learned how to windsurf when she was offered free lessons while working as a lifeguard. The idea of windsurfing was new and still developing, but she “rode the progression of the sport” and went on to be a major player in the professional circuit and eventually set the record in speed sailing at a screaming 38 mph on her wind-surf board (the previous record was 32 mph). Imagine driving your car at 38 mph and looking down at the concrete zooming past you, and that’s what the water looks like while you’re windsurfing. The impact is just as deadly.
As the sport of windsurfing grew, so did the coverage, and Lori happened to have a natural talent for photography. Not only did she compete and win at competitions, but she would also catch great images of the sport. Her windsurfing photos have been published in magazines all over the world and she essentially became an ambassador for the sport. Born in Ventura county, Lori now lives in Santa Barbara with her husband Kail Wathne and two sons, Reese and Curtis. She is an avid surfer, freelance writer and photographer, adventure enthusiast, and still the original Santa Barbara wind-surfer.
Amy Bigelow
Reigning Champion of 9 Trails Race
Rejoice new hobbies! Amy Bigelow didn’t start running until she was 28 years old, starting with a slow and painful 3-mile loop around her neighborhood. Fast-forward ten years, and she is now two-time women’s champion of the 35-mile Nine Trails Race and in the best shape ever. The occasional run around the block became a passion for Amy Bigelow and eventually led her to the beautiful trails around Santa Barbara where trail running has recently become more popular. The Nine Trails race goes through Los Padres National Forest with an elevation gain of over 10,500 feet. It’s a hilly course with rocky terrain, creek crossings, climbs, and fast drops. The race took Amy seven hours and 34 minutes to complete, with her legs literally “smashed” at the end, and palms all cut up from taking a couple of spills along the way.
Constantly exceeding her own expectations, Amy has surprised herself with what she is capable of. “I don’t even know what my limitations are,” she said with a beaming smile. “Too many women make the mistake of thinking that they have physical limitations…we’re capable of doing so much more than what we give ourselves credit for.”
She encourages women, no matter what shape they’re in, to get out there and try something. “The SB running community is so incredible, I’ve made some great friends.” Organizations such as SB Running, SB Athletic Associations, and Moms in Motion offer great opportunities for anybody to get involved in the sport. Her goal now is to do even better in the race next year and try to finish under seven hours, a record breaker for women’s times. Amy also runs her own recruiting business, is the health and wellness sales representative for the eco-friendly Green Toe shoes, and is a single-mother of two young sons, Reese and Mason.
Sharon Green
World-class sail photographer
“The wetter and more miserable we are, the better the picture,” claims Sharon Green, one of the world’s leaders in sail photography. Hanging from helicopters or chase boats in turbulent conditions, Sharon Green captures the essence of sailboats and yachts at their most extreme. She is one of only two women who are regular photographers at the highest levels of competitive yacht racing. It’s a physically demanding job with plenty of death-defying and adrenaline-pumping action, because sailboats don’t come alive without the terrifying winds and sharp speed.
Sharon’s strength as a sail photographer comes from growing up in a sailing family. Her understanding of the sport allows her to “tell you at each second what’s going to happen,” and results in spectacular photos of great splashes. She manages her own company, called “Ultimate Sailing,” and edits, publishes, and distributes a calendar every year of action-packed boats from all over the world. Her calendar has become celebrated in the sailing world and is coming upon its 25th anniversary. Green also works for private individuals, teams, and sponsors of tournaments. Her jobs include making photo documentaries, creating slide shows in sync with music, and even public speaking at events such as yacht fundraisers. For more information on Sharon and her company, visit www.ultimatesailing.com.
Sue Peterson
Professional Swimmer
Sue Peterson was swimming competitively at age five and by the time she was in fifth grade, she was traveling away from home for the summer to train. Sue was shy, but feeling the “success” of swimming and competition and the sheer joy of being in the water gave her a special kind of focus, exceptional for someone so young. By age sixteen, she was training with her team to qualify for the Olympics. She would see other swimmers and remembers thinking, “If they can do it, why can’t I? I just knew it was possible.” Sue missed the 1976 Games by 2/100ths of a second.
Sue attended USC and continued training and experiencing what she calls, “a high, mental and physical and spiritual—you transcend pain, you are on another plain.” She recalls being so elated and elevated that her body felt as if it couldn’t even hold in pain. Unfortunately, in 1980 the United States boycotted the Olympics (which were held in Russia). Whatever frustration or disappointment Sue felt, did not slow her down—literally. That year she held the world record for speed, and was in the Guinness Book as fastest female swimmer.
Sue stopped swimming competitively but was able to travel around the world “performing swimming and teaching Water Polo clinics with a dear friend from college.” Sue loved everything about the sport, “the stretching, the relaxation.” She wanted to share this gift with as many kids as possible, and after having her own kids she wrote a book called Swim with Me. She later co-wrote another book called Becoming a Better You, in which she inspires kids to live in a more balanced and aware state, by way of her own stories.
Sue adores living in Santa Barbara and takes time everyday to “breathe, run, bike or surf.” And every once in a while she can be talked into entering a triathlon or race by her husband or one of her kids. “Swimming is addictive,” she says. “It makes you happy.”
Shawn Alladio
K38 Water Rescue Owner and Instructor
Shawn Alladio started the business K38, which has become the standard for big wave surfing rescue operations. K38 trains the Navy, police, lifeguard and firefighting units as well as big wave tow-in surfers in fast water rescue procedures. Shawn is the only female instructor in the entire Navy SEALS program.
In 1979 Shawn found her passion when she bought her first stand-up Jet Ski. In 1989, she started racing Jet Skis professionally. While racing, she saw a lot of things being done unsafely and thus began the K38 Rescue Squad. Shawn teaches anybody who wants to learn, and she teaches people to follow their instincts.
Not only is Shawn a teacher, but she is also the person to whom even the proudest of men turn to for advice and assistance. She has worked with men like Jeff Clark, Ross Clark Jones and other big wave surfers. She has done Jet Ski tow-ins and rescues at places like Mavericks, Todos Santos, Teahupo’o and Jaws. Jones once said, “With Shawn around, it’s not even dangerous to surf anymore!”
You may think that a woman like this has no fear, but when asked what the most frightening experience she has ever had while doing rescues is, she simply said, “honestly, every one of them.” Surprisingly enough, she continued by saying, “it’s the human element that is terrifying, not the natural element.” You would think that working in conditions like the documented “100 foot Wednesday,” during which the waves were up to 120 feet, that the natural element would be the most dominant fuel for terror. That particular day, she says, shifted her psyche on a personal level. She “felt completely insignificant as a being.”
She was also a participant in the rescue efforts during the New Orleans disaster, which she described as “crushing to the soul.” She would pass by houses, and all she could think was “these people are never going to step through that door again.”
Perhaps one of the things that helps get Shawn through all the tragedy she sees is her mentality that “you have to always find the good in the bad,” even though sometimes that is a really tough thing to do.
Shawn Alladio is by far one of the most selfless and humble women I have been fortunate enough to meet in my life. She is the kind of person that instantly makes you feel at home as if you were family. She lives her life for other people, whether they be complete strangers or her own two children whom she loves deeply, she always puts others first. Yet even with all that she has already accomplished in life, her goal is still “to be a better woman today than I was yesterday.”
Posted April 2006 Blue Edge Magazine. All rights reserved.
March 2006 Issue
John Birchim: Recycling the Good Land
“Giving Thanks”
Words and Photos by Branden Aroyan
Community
Seaborn Designs is the business name and it says it all.
John Birchhim and partner Guner Tautrim only use wood that is recycled from the Santa Barbara County on the Orella Ranch. No trees are harvested; it’s all environmentally friendly salvaged wood!
By working with local tree companies and Marborg, Seaborn uses the trees that would otherwise be thrown away. The salvaged trees can be milled lumber with or without natural edges. Seaborn Designs turns these recycled trees into custom woodworking that cannot be found anywhere else. Monterey Cyprus, Black Acacia and California Redwood become epic counter tops, tables and cabinets. A fine display is at El Capitan Canyon Store. Completely natural all the way through, the good vibe of the place starts with the work Seaborn Designs did.
Everything moves in waves John tells me: sound and light, the ocean and tides. Everything revolves around the ocean so he focuses his designs to reflect the grace of the waves. This doesn’t mean that when the waves are good he’s gone surfing. He’s grateful for the time he has spent in the water and just being by the coast. And it’s this time spent that shows in his work.
Custom
An accomplished artist, John is able to adapt his skills to fit the needs of each client and still express his own emotion. Frames are his favorite type of work to create. The interaction of complimenting another artist’s unique look with his frames brings both forms of artwork to another level. An original example is at the Natural Café on lower State Street. Surf photography with a natural edged frame becomes something else; it’s unreal.
Inspirations
Randy Cone and Brad Johnson are the first of John’s inspirations to come to mind. Brad has really influenced the lifestyle of surfing. He shapes his own boards and for others as well. He gets his work done like everyone else, the difference is he’s surfing more than most and enjoying the time now rather than waiting until retirement to have a good time.
Another surfer/craftsman inspiration is Randy Cone. John watched and learned from Randy the process of working with tools and creating functional sculptures. The transition to woodworking became a natural one. No chemicals. Wood became the medium of choice because it doesn’t have the unfortunate side effects of working with resin and foam.
Family
Born and raised in Goleta, and soon to be married, John Birchim feels really blessed to live in the Good Land. He has raised two beautiful daughters and he’s stoked to see them follow his footsteps in this amazing place. He gives thanks every day and keeps things positive.
Future
John is also focused on starting a real estate career to help people afford land and stay in town. In combination with a background in sustainable living, it looks like John will be here for a few more generations and make it a little nicer along the way.
Posted March 2006 Blue Edge Magazine. All rights reserved.
February 2006 Issue
Renny & Lauran Yater
By Michael Kew, Photographs by Branden Aroyan
Renny Yater
A master shaper, Reynolds “Renny” Yater is perhaps Santa Barbara’s finest surf legacy.
Since his 1959 arrival from Laguna Beach, Yater, 73, has maintained unparalleled consistency and an unflinching dedication to a product that, at this moment, in a shaping room off Milpas Street, could be enduring Yater’s finesse for the fruits of yet another fine winter swell. After all, Santa Barbara is renowned for such—Yater’s known for more than five decades.
Likewise, Southern California’s surf cognoscenti has known of Yater’s boards for roughly the same amount of time, from back when Yater worked for Hobie Alter and Dale Velzy, preceding Yater’s fateful, permanent pilgrimage to our “Western Riviera,” where he eventually established Santa Barbara Surf Shop and fished for winter lobster between Ventura and Point Arguello.
Yater dually harvested the clean, green winter waves at Rincon and Hammond’s, also venturing deep into the empty coast of Hollister and Bixby ranches, which quickly became off-season summer staples. But it was Yater’s innate board building talent that eventually bridged his gap between summer and winter at a time when Santa Barbara was truly one of surfing’s backwaters, a world away from his native Laguna Beach.
That was in the 1960s. Today, Yater’s boards are still revered, and rightly so. If you ride one, congratulate yourself.
You were 27 when you moved here. Back then, fishing came before surfing?
Yeah. It occurred to me after I came up here, ‘What am I going to do in the summer?’ So I thought, well, I could always pull (the fishing) back and make some surfboards. Dick Perry and I rented a place down on Anacapa Street and we made boards for local guys. Well, that was about all eight or 10 of them. That was it. We flooded the market! (laughs)
Now you’re 73 and you no longer fish for a living. What about a retirement from shaping?
I’m not doing as much because we subcontract out all the fiberglassing. I don’t do any of that. Everything’s subcontracted.
All that fun stuff you don’t want to do.
Yeah. So I’ve backed off on a lot of the work. If you go back 20-25 years ago, I did hand-shaping, glassing, retailing—the whole works—and fishing. It was a pretty heavy menu.
So you’re semi-retired now.
Yeah, I am. Lauran does a lot of it. So you might say I’m backing out slowly.
What would you like to be remembered for?
Oh, I don’t know. The fact that I went through all this and managed to stay in all this time (laughs). Very few guys did. Most of them bailed out.
You’ve been in the surfboard industry continuously since when?
Since I first worked for Hobie, I would say. That was about ’54. Building the first surfboard all the way through probably in ’52 or ’53. All the way through, the whole finished product. Had to be somewhere around ’53.
What’s next for Reynolds Yater?
Well, I like to do these more exotic projects, like the abalone boards. Just veer off more to that direction. Eventually, you develop a sport to its maximum of ability. Like the shortboards now—how much smaller can they get? The good thing about it now is finally you’ve got to a point where there’s a board for the surf. You quit trying to ride a real hot-rod surfboard in crappy surf. It just doesn’t work. So that’s really known now. That’s why you’re seeing heavier longboards come back into style, because they work good in a lot of surf. They work better.
Lauran Yater
Heir apparent to his father’s talent, 45-year-old Lauran Yater knows what makes a stellar Santa Barbara surfboard.
Always in the right place at the right time, Lauran believes his shapes are a collective cache of creative yet calculated pointbreak research, whether he’s streaking on the wave of the day at Rincon or garnering feedback from another satisfied customer while shopping in Trader Joe’s.
Skilled in virtually all genres, Lauran’s feet are planted firmly in both the past and the future of surfboard design. Influenced by his father and other notables like Bob Duncan, Marc Andreini, and Bob Krause, the environment into which Lauran was born—his dad’s surfboard factory—couldn’t have been more convenient for his blossoming mind, evident to us with one glance at his boards in the Beach House or while riding the wave of the day at Rincon—assuming Lauran lets one of us have it.
Did your talents arise from your genes?
No doubt about it. I surf a lot like my dad; he knows how to trim really well. He can find the trim spot on the board and come from behind, and that’s what he’s known for. In fact, I was out surfing Rincon one day and I got locked into this really good tube; I came out and kicked out. This guy, an artist who lives in Hope Ranch, just looked at me and said, “You know, for 20 years I’ve been looking for a guy who surfs like your dad, and I finally found somebody. It’s you!” (laughs)
Do you take credit for any one design?
Most shapers tend to shape boards for their area, and that’s basically all I’ve done. I’ve gone to Hawai’i, seen what it’s like, but I don’t surf over there. I’ve learned all the stuff I’ve learned off of other people and just gone to what I like the looks of and tried to do my version of what I think a good board is.
What are the best aspects of your shaping ability?
I probably spend too much time in detail, as far as what I get paid for, so the customer gets his money’s worth. There’s no doubt about that. A guy can bring in a favorite and I’ll spend three days duplicating the thing to get it to work better, not by mistake, but by doing a really good copy. Just paying attention to detail.
How has your father influenced you?
His longevity and his strength, showing up and working, always being there.
How do you differ yourself from your dad?
He’s more stern. I guess I’m a little more looser, more of the artist type, a little more floatier, whereas he’s just really solid. Extremely solid. I take after my mom more.
What’s next for surfboard design?
There’s so much new stuff on the market right now. The fact that about seven years ago, the surfboard designs went wide open as far as you can walk down the beach with anything and it’s okay. In fact, it’s cool to switch boards and ride something different during the day—go from a longboard to a twin-fin. It really opened things up and made everything kind of more relaxed. It’s neat, because now everybody’s working on all this new stuff. There’s not a whole lot of new designs that are coming out of it—they’re just being perfected.
Posted February 2006 Blue Edge Magazine. All rights reserved.
January 2006 Issue
On a Different Plane: Al Merrick
By Chuck Graham
Al Merrick’s greatest attribute might be his ability to understand each of his team rider’s needs. Most would argue that it’s his state of the art designs, the ability to develop a cache of new designs before they reach the surfing public, fine tuned under the feet of the Currens, Slaters, Machados and Martinezes of the wave riding world, that sets him apart.
However, when it comes time to produce another “magic board,” Al is always fishing for each of his surfer’s interpretation of what makes a board work or not work.
For the past 30 years, ever since a 12-year-old Tom Curren stepped inside the bowels of Al’s shaping room, he’s produced boards for the best in the world and quite a few hot unknowns along the way. But life has changed in some ways for Merrick: his successful bout with prostate cancer, grandchildren, and the recent release of Flow, a documentary film about nearly everything Merrick and the surfers surrounding him.
So between burritos and doting over his one-year-old granddaughter Daisy, Al reflected on years past and some of the incredible surfers who ride his boards.
Surfer Magazine: How long have you been shaping?
Al Merrick: Since 1968, so 37 years.
SM: How did you decide on Channel Islands as the name for your boards?
AM: Not quite sure. I just remember thinking about what can I use for a name, and I thought it was obvious that Channel Islands was a good name for a surfboard. I probably could’ve chosen a better name because it’s so long and hard to work with.
SM: When you first began did you ever envision Channel Islands becoming what it is today?
AM: No. It’s way more than I ever imagined. I always had the dream, I was telling Terry (Al’s wife) I’d like to be the best at what I do, but I never envisioned Channel Islands to be what it’s become. I can’t envision surfing being what it is now worldwide. It’s amazing.
SM: Is there anything in regards to shaping that you haven’t accomplished yet, but want to?
AM: No, not really. I’ve accomplished more than I ever dreamed of so I don’t really think that way. It’s more day to day. The big thing is to make magic boards more regularly, and then keep advancing boards. Being able to make boards that will accommodate surfers, their imaginations and where they want to go. Whether that’s reachable or not, I don’t know.
SM: What about the relationships you’ve developed over the years with certain surfers?
AM: That’s motivational trying to make boards for them to surf at their peak or close to it. It’s not motivating to work, but it is spiritually and that connection with people. It’s something that’s really special. That in itself is a much bigger reward I think than shaping.
SM: Do you have a favorite era as a shaper?
AM: I had a lot of fun back during the time we had the team going, the team workouts. The whole thing was so energetic. That was a lot of fun. But then again you’d have to say traveling with Tommy and shaping boards for him when he was winning his titles, and it was the same thing with Kelly. It’s hard picking a favorite period of time. They all have their special memories.
SM: What do you think is your greatest strength as a shaper?
AM: I think my designing over the years has been a big strength. Suddenly they just come. It’s surprising to me I suppose as it would to anybody some of the designs and the amount of designs I’m coming out with. I could be five or six designs ahead of what I’m actually selling to the public as far as what I’m doing for different surfers. Then I think communication. Being able to understand what a surfer is saying to me when their board isn’t working or a rail is catching. Everyone communicates that a little differently. You have to be able to actually weed through what the person is saying and really figure out what the problem is because a guy may say his rails are too thick. That may mean the tail rocker isn’t right, but it may be something to the surfer that he’s obviously feeling, but as a designer and shaper it could be totally different in reality to what’s making the board not functioning the way it should.
SM: Weaknesses?
AM: I’m probably not the best craftsmen in the world, not the best finisher. There are guys better than I am. I’m good enough to get where I want to go, but I don’t think I’m the best. But in reality it’s more important for me to spend time trying to make sure the design features of the board, major design features that make the board really work in my mind are right, and not to be spending my time trying to fine sand it so you can get the most perfect finish.
SM: Do you remember the first board you shaped?
AM: I do. A 7’2” round pin single fin with a purple arrow on the deck and a red bottom.
SM: What about the first board you shaped for Tom?
AM: I really don’t. I remember specific boards, but not the first one. I remember Tommy in the shaping room. He was probably 12 and his mom’s the one that did all the talking.
SM: First one for Kelly?
AM: No, certain boards yes like the Trestles board, things like that, but I don’t remember and I don’t know why (laughs).
SM: Well, there’s lots to remember.
AM: I used to remember every person’s dimensions that I shaped for. You could come in and I could tell you your dimensions.
SM: I remember you had them all on index cards. I don’t know if you still have them?
AM: I do, every board I shaped for my pros and even my amateur guys I keep records on. I got files and files on top of files. I have a file cabinet this big (gestures to about four feet high).
SM: Do you have a favorite type of surfing?
AM: Well, you probably remember from the old days, Santa Barbara was always black wetsuits, clear boards, 7’-6” pintails and everyone wanted to draw clean lines.
SM: We’ve always had the waves to do that though.
AM: I was always interested in Davey Smith and watching the kids go different directions on waves. I still think that is my favorite today. Although I love Taylor’s (Knox) surfing, the clean line surfing, not that Taylor doesn’t do modern things. He does, but it’s really fun to watch people push it. You watch Dane (Reynolds) surf and seeing him clear airs that are 10 feet it’s just amazing, then landing it and going into another maneuver.
SM: Regarding Dane, what is his potential? What do you see for him?
AM: I see the same thing I saw in Tom and Kelly. He has potential to be a world champion. But I’m not sure whether the dominance level is there say at Tommy’s time when he was so far ahead of people.
SM: Dane’s 19.
AM: But he has great potential to be a world champion if he wants to be. He has the physical ability, but right now he’s taken a different approach in that, because the money is there now. Kids can maybe do a little more traveling, do videos and make their decisions a little slower. But he’s very exciting. Obviously, I think Kelly is probably the best surfer in the world by a long shot right now in my mind. You take Dane, he’s probably the most exciting surfer I’ve seen and he’s right up there. He’s very close to the top guys, competitively not right now, but his surfing, straight out surfing, I’d say in the world.
SM: What surfer has changed the sport more than any other?
AM: I think I’m prejudice but I’d have to say Tommy and Kelly. I can’t think of any other that have changed surfing so radically, but I hate to leave anyone out. I know there are other guys, but I feel so fortunate to be able to have been involved with those two.
SM: You could say Simon Anderson as a top competitive surfer and shaper.
AM: Yes, no question about it. Simon brought a giant change with his configuration of the thruster. Of course, before that there was the Campbell brothers of Oxnard that were making 3-fin boards. Generally, you’d have to say Simon came up with the more modern 3-fin the way it’s configured now.
SM: When you see Tom surf today, do you enjoy his surfing more now or was he more fun to watch growing up on your boards?
AM: I spent a whole lot of time watching him surf and surfing with him years past. I was taking him surfing it seemed like everyday. Going to all the contests and all the travel. That was a different sense of enjoyment. Recently when I have gotten to watch him surf, he’s still just a beautiful surfer, an amazing surfer.
SM: Two winters ago there was a day at Rincon and it was almost completely flat, maybe ankle-high. No one was around except this one guy. He’s suiting up, his gloves, hood, booties and paddles out on a beat up, old longboard. At the top of the cove he catches this mere ripple and somehow connects all the way through to the freeway. There was no mistaking the style, it was Tom. It reminded me of surfing against him when we were kids, how he was always able to find a wave when he needed one, or get a tube ride when there was none to be had. My question is he always seems to have that special connection with the ocean. Does Kelly possess that same trait?
AM: I think he does, and I think all great surfers have that connection. It’s almost like they can paddle over to an area where there hasn’t been a peak all day and the peak comes through and they get a 9.5 on it. It’s hard to explain. It seems to me great athletes have that ability to connect and also the ability for time to stand still or slow down. I always relate it to a great hitter in baseball. Great hitters say they can see the stitching on the ball when it’s coming at them. It’s a different perspective. To me when those guys get on a wave, they’re seeing things before it happens in a different time frame than the average person on a wave.
SM: Do you see any other Currens or Slaters out on the horizon?
AM: Maybe an Australian or two, a Brazilian kid that’s very good. In my particular sphere of influence and knowledge, Dane is the most exciting surfer that I see that has the possibility of separating himself from the rest.
SM: It seems like it’s much harder today because there’s more good surfers out there and equipment is better.
AM: I think in a sense you’re right, but it’s harder every time. You know what I mean? So every jump in every progression in each period of time that it occurs it’s always a feat and it always appears harder. But you have to give the accolades to everyone along the way because the time they did it, it was harder than the time before. But that’s what makes progression. That’s what makes it fun and exciting. What came before is allowing what is going on now because people see what did happen and it opens up the possibility of what can happen. You need everything that went before.
SM: Bobby Martinez qualified for the WCT this past year. What is your opinion of his potential?
AM: I told Bobby, I think those guys are in trouble with him coming on the tour. If you put two of the things about surfing that people really love-raw power and rail surfing-getting on a rail and really carving and the ability to blow lips and tails out and come down sideways, Bobby is the perfect fit. He has style and power, and he’s totally into the new realm of surfing which is blowing out of the wave, and has the tremendous ability to put that all together. To me he stands out as the one that’s of the new age surfers that have really put that together. I think it will be devastating when he gets on the CT. I think when he goes man on man in good waves and holds his emotions together, he’s going to be devastating.
SM: So physically he’s there, what about mentally?
AM: I don’t know. Bobby’s Bobby. I think he’s a great kid. I think he’s mentally strong. I think he’s stronger since being laid off from Oakley. I think it’s given him a new desire to go out and prove himself. I think that kicked up everything a notch. So much of it comes down with Santa Barbara kids and traveling. I don’t know what it is, but I’ve watched them all through the years. Tommy was able to travel pretty well, although he did eventually burn out kind of at the end. Chris Brown, tremendous surfer, probably a great hope in this area, at one time was right up there, but couldn’t travel. Bobby has had some problems leaving home and being away, so we’ll see how well he adapts to the schedule. Travel I think is a great part of surfing. I hope he’ll be able to put it together and feel comfortable on the road.
SM: Talking about Bobby blowing the doors down, does Dane fit into that realm?
AM: Dane hasn’t reached a competitive level yet. It’s hard to talk about Dane that way because he hasn’t been at it as long or as serious with it. He’s had the opportunity to travel, do more videos and not have to concentrate so much on the competitive end. Bobby had that, but now he’s had to earn his keep, so to speak. So Dane in respect to how he’ll do, with his surfing he’ll be great, no problem there, but whether he’ll be able to contain himself to surf at a constant level, not making mistakes remains in question. Bobby’s a little older and has that experience. He has the experience of losing, which hurts a guy that likes to win. Sometimes it really matures you. Bobby has more of a maturing process in his life. You need to lose, because if you don’t lose you won’t learn how much you don’t like it. Some lose and it makes them want to win. Dane has a lot of synchronism between his creative ability and physical ability, and he’s able to paint a canvas. He’s able to take that rush and take himself to places that other people probably haven’t thought were possible to reach. The extent of his airs, the stuff he does is why competitively I don’t know how he’ll develop because right now he just wants to push things as far as he can go.
Fittingly, the last clip in Flow shows a high flying Reynolds, nothing but a liquid blur, streaking across a wave with only a frothy trough left in his wake.
Posted January 2006 Blue Edge Magazine. All rights reserved.
December 2005 Issue
On a Different Plane: Al Merrick
By Chuck Graham
Al Merrick’s greatest attribute might be his ability to understand each of his team rider’s needs. Most would argue that it’s his state of the art designs, the ability to develop a cache of new designs before they reach the surfing public, fine tuned under the feet of the Currens, Slaters, Machados and Martinezes of the wave riding world, that sets him apart.
However, when it comes time to produce another “magic board,” Al is always fishing for each of his surfer’s interpretation of what makes a board work or not work.
For the past 30 years, ever since a 12-year-old Tom Curren stepped inside the bowels of Al’s shaping room, he’s produced boards for the best in the world and quite a few hot unknowns along the way. But life has changed in some ways for Merrick: his successful bout with prostate cancer, grandchildren, and the recent release of Flow, a documentary film about nearly everything Merrick and the surfers surrounding him.
So between burritos and doting over his one-year-old granddaughter Daisy, Al reflected on years past and some of the incredible surfers who ride his boards.
Surfer Magazine: How long have you been shaping?
Al Merrick: Since 1968, so 37 years.
SM: How did you decide on Channel Islands as the name for your boards?
AM: Not quite sure. I just remember thinking about what can I use for a name, and I thought it was obvious that Channel Islands was a good name for a surfboard. I probably could’ve chosen a better name because it’s so long and hard to work with.
SM: When you first began did you ever envision Channel Islands becoming what it is today?
AM: No. It’s way more than I ever imagined. I always had the dream, I was telling Terry (Al’s wife) I’d like to be the best at what I do, but I never envisioned Channel Islands to be what it’s become. I can’t envision surfing being what it is now worldwide. It’s amazing.
SM: Is there anything in regards to shaping that you haven’t accomplished yet, but want to?
AM: No, not really. I’ve accomplished more than I ever dreamed of so I don’t really think that way. It’s more day to day. The big thing is to make magic boards more regularly, and then keep advancing boards. Being able to make boards that will accommodate surfers, their imaginations and where they want to go. Whether that’s reachable or not, I don’t know.
SM: What about the relationships you’ve developed over the years with certain surfers?
AM: That’s motivational trying to make boards for them to surf at their peak or close to it. It’s not motivating to work, but it is spiritually and that connection with people. It’s something that’s really special. That in itself is a much bigger reward I think than shaping.
SM: Do you have a favorite era as a shaper?
AM: I had a lot of fun back during the time we had the team going, the team workouts. The whole thing was so energetic. That was a lot of fun. But then again you’d have to say traveling with Tommy and shaping boards for him when he was winning his titles, and it was the same thing with Kelly. It’s hard picking a favorite period of time. They all have their special memories.
SM: What do you think is your greatest strength as a shaper?
AM: I think my designing over the years has been a big strength. Suddenly they just come. It’s surprising to me I suppose as it would to anybody some of the designs and the amount of designs I’m coming out with. I could be five or six designs ahead of what I’m actually selling to the public as far as what I’m doing for different surfers. Then I think communication. Being able to understand what a surfer is saying to me when their board isn’t working or a rail is catching. Everyone communicates that a little differently. You have to be able to actually weed through what the person is saying and really figure out what the problem is because a guy may say his rails are too thick. That may mean the tail rocker isn’t right, but it may be something to the surfer that he’s obviously feeling, but as a designer and shaper it could be totally different in reality to what’s making the board not functioning the way it should.
SM: Weaknesses?
AM: I’m probably not the best craftsmen in the world, not the best finisher. There are guys better than I am. I’m good enough to get where I want to go, but I don’t think I’m the best. But in reality it’s more important for me to spend time trying to make sure the design features of the board, major design features that make the board really work in my mind are right, and not to be spending my time trying to fine sand it so you can get the most perfect finish.
SM: Do you remember the first board you shaped?
AM: I do. A 7’2” round pin single fin with a purple arrow on the deck and a red bottom.
SM: What about the first board you shaped for Tom?
AM: I really don’t. I remember specific boards, but not the first one. I remember Tommy in the shaping room. He was probably 12 and his mom’s the one that did all the talking.
SM: First one for Kelly?
AM: No, certain boards yes like the Trestles board, things like that, but I don’t remember and I don’t know why (laughs).
SM: Well, there’s lots to remember.
AM: I used to remember every person’s dimensions that I shaped for. You could come in and I could tell you your dimensions.
SM: I remember you had them all on index cards. I don’t know if you still have them?
AM: I do, every board I shaped for my pros and even my amateur guys I keep records on. I got files and files on top of files. I have a file cabinet this big (gestures to about four feet high).
SM: Do you have a favorite type of surfing?
AM: Well, you probably remember from the old days, Santa Barbara was always black wetsuits, clear boards, 7’-6” pintails and everyone wanted to draw clean lines.
SM: We’ve always had the waves to do that though.
AM: I was always interested in Davey Smith and watching the kids go different directions on waves. I still think that is my favorite today. Although I love Taylor’s (Knox) surfing, the clean line surfing, not that Taylor doesn’t do modern things. He does, but it’s really fun to watch people push it. You watch Dane (Reynolds) surf and seeing him clear airs that are 10 feet it’s just amazing, then landing it and going into another maneuver.
SM: Regarding Dane, what is his potential? What do you see for him?
AM: I see the same thing I saw in Tom and Kelly. He has potential to be a world champion. But I’m not sure whether the dominance level is there say at Tommy’s time when he was so far ahead of people.
SM: Dane’s 19.
AM: But he has great potential to be a world champion if he wants to be. He has the physical ability, but right now he’s taken a different approach in that, because the money is there now. Kids can maybe do a little more traveling, do videos and make their decisions a little slower. But he’s very exciting. Obviously, I think Kelly is probably the best surfer in the world by a long shot right now in my mind. You take Dane, he’s probably the most exciting surfer I’ve seen and he’s right up there. He’s very close to the top guys, competitively not right now, but his surfing, straight out surfing, I’d say in the world.
SM: What surfer has changed the sport more than any other?
AM: I think I’m prejudice but I’d have to say Tommy and Kelly. I can’t think of any other that have changed surfing so radically, but I hate to leave anyone out. I know there are other guys, but I feel so fortunate to be able to have been involved with those two.
SM: You could say Simon Anderson as a top competitive surfer and shaper.
AM: Yes, no question about it. Simon brought a giant change with his configuration of the thruster. Of course, before that there was the Campbell brothers of Oxnard that were making 3-fin boards. Generally, you’d have to say Simon came up with the more modern 3-fin the way it’s configured now.
SM: When you see Tom surf today, do you enjoy his surfing more now or was he more fun to watch growing up on your boards?
AM: I spent a whole lot of time watching him surf and surfing with him years past. I was taking him surfing it seemed like everyday. Going to all the contests and all the travel. That was a different sense of enjoyment. Recently when I have gotten to watch him surf, he’s still just a beautiful surfer, an amazing surfer.
SM: Two winters ago there was a day at Rincon and it was almost completely flat, maybe ankle-high. No one was around except this one guy. He’s suiting up, his gloves, hood, booties and paddles out on a beat up, old longboard. At the top of the cove he catches this mere ripple and somehow connects all the way through to the freeway. There was no mistaking the style, it was Tom. It reminded me of surfing against him when we were kids, how he was always able to find a wave when he needed one, or get a tube ride when there was none to be had. My question is he always seems to have that special connection with the ocean. Does Kelly possess that same trait?
AM: I think he does, and I think all great surfers have that connection. It’s almost like they can paddle over to an area where there hasn’t been a peak all day and the peak comes through and they get a 9.5 on it. It’s hard to explain. It seems to me great athletes have that ability to connect and also the ability for time to stand still or slow down. I always relate it to a great hitter in baseball. Great hitters say they can see the stitching on the ball when it’s coming at them. It’s a different perspective. To me when those guys get on a wave, they’re seeing things before it happens in a different time frame than the average person on a wave.
SM: Do you see any other Currens or Slaters out on the horizon?
AM: Maybe an Australian or two, a Brazilian kid that’s very good. In my particular sphere of influence and knowledge, Dane is the most exciting surfer that I see that has the possibility of separating himself from the rest.
SM: It seems like it’s much harder today because there’s more good surfers out there and equipment is better.
AM: I think in a sense you’re right, but it’s harder every time. You know what I mean? So every jump in every progression in each period of time that it occurs it’s always a feat and it always appears harder. But you have to give the accolades to everyone along the way because the time they did it, it was harder than the time before. But that’s what makes progression. That’s what makes it fun and exciting. What came before is allowing what is going on now because people see what did happen and it opens up the possibility of what can happen. You need everything that went before.
SM: Bobby Martinez qualified for the WCT this past year. What is your opinion of his potential?
AM: I told Bobby, I think those guys are in trouble with him coming on the tour. If you put two of the things about surfing that people really love-raw power and rail surfing-getting on a rail and really carving and the ability to blow lips and tails out and come down sideways, Bobby is the perfect fit. He has style and power, and he’s totally into the new realm of surfing which is blowing out of the wave, and has the tremendous ability to put that all together. To me he stands out as the one that’s of the new age surfers that have really put that together. I think it will be devastating when he gets on the CT. I think when he goes man on man in good waves and holds his emotions together, he’s going to be devastating.
SM: So physically he’s there, what about mentally?
AM: I don’t know. Bobby’s Bobby. I think he’s a great kid. I think he’s mentally strong. I think he’s stronger since being laid off from Oakley. I think it’s given him a new desire to go out and prove himself. I think that kicked up everything a notch. So much of it comes down with Santa Barbara kids and traveling. I don’t know what it is, but I’ve watched them all through the years. Tommy was able to travel pretty well, although he did eventually burn out kind of at the end. Chris Brown, tremendous surfer, probably a great hope in this area, at one time was right up there, but couldn’t travel. Bobby has had some problems leaving home and being away, so we’ll see how well he adapts to the schedule. Travel I think is a great part of surfing. I hope he’ll be able to put it together and feel comfortable on the road.
SM: Talking about Bobby blowing the doors down, does Dane fit into that realm?
AM: Dane hasn’t reached a competitive level yet. It’s hard to talk about Dane that way because he hasn’t been at it as long or as serious with it. He’s had the opportunity to travel, do more videos and not have to concentrate so much on the competitive end. Bobby had that, but now he’s had to earn his keep, so to speak. So Dane in respect to how he’ll do, with his surfing he’ll be great, no problem there, but whether he’ll be able to contain himself to surf at a constant level, not making mistakes remains in question. Bobby’s a little older and has that experience. He has the experience of losing, which hurts a guy that likes to win. Sometimes it really matures you. Bobby has more of a maturing process in his life. You need to lose, because if you don’t lose you won’t learn how much you don’t like it. Some lose and it makes them want to win. Dane has a lot of synchronism between his creative ability and physical ability, and he’s able to paint a canvas. He’s able to take that rush and take himself to places that other people probably haven’t thought were possible to reach. The extent of his airs, the stuff he does is why competitively I don’t know how he’ll develop because right now he just wants to push things as far as he can go.
Fittingly, the last clip in Flow shows a high flying Reynolds, nothing but a liquid blur, streaking across a wave with only a frothy trough left in his wake.
Posted December 2005 Blue Edge Magazine. All rights reserved.
November 2005 Issue
Shaper Spotlight: Gabriel Loyd
Words and Photos by Vincent Shay
First impressions are everything. Walking into Gabriel Loyd’s shaping room gave me a first impression that I will not forget for some time. Vivid blues and greens under fiberglass give his boards a life of their own. A living, breathing entity that almost begs to find that perfect wave on its own. No rider needed. Central Coast board shaper Gabriel Loyd is a surfer and has been all his life. Born and raised around surfing, his philosophy has always been centered on the joy of the ocean and the form of a wave as art.
Not a particularly competitive surfer, Loyd would rather be known as one to give a wave than to take one. He is the son of legendary photographer and board shaper Aaron Loyd. He learned early on that quality and the final product is the most important component to the art of shaping. Every shape begins from a raw blank and ends with the final polishing. Gabriel does everything and enjoys being in control of every facet of his shapes. Learning every aspect of the final product is his goal.
“A lot of people don't know that I do everything! From shaping, to glassing, to doing my own airbrushing!” he said.
In Pismo Beach his shapes stand apart not only because of the quality of his boards, but his unique airbrushing. Each board is a piece of art that seems to breathe, but even more than that, the creation seems to have a soul.
Loyd learned from the best. He credits his development to working with his father who shapes for Al Merrick and PJ Wahl, local Central Coast shapers. Both role models have been pivotal mentors in not only his personal life, but also for his passion for shaping surfboards. “When I go into shops, I check out every shape. I truly believe Al Merrick designs are the best. The quality of the boards and consistency of the shapes are what I model my own shapes from.”
Equally important is the feedback he gets from surfers who regularly surf his shapes. Always evolving and learning, a shaper fine-tunes his art form. This is the destination of every shaper and Loyd is no different.
None of Loyd's boards are pre-shaped digitally. He believes in the art of finding the shape. Like most of the artists I have met, Loyd truly believes the perfect shape is already in the blank; it‚s just up to the shaper to find it. Not to say that Loyd is against computer shapes, he just wants to truly learn and hone the art of shaping before he starts to utilize the computer.
Loyd's specialty board is his 'Miss Piggy‚ model. Not just the average short board, but also more of a high-performance hybrid model. He believes that boards in general are getting shorter with increased width and more curvature in the templates, especially in California. This philosophy is what drives his board designs.
Loyd is very excited about the future. Creating a business and working with his father is his goal and his passion for the industry is driven through his dedication to the art of creating a quality surfboard design. Loyd believes in hard work and a 'never give up‚ attitude' Loyd is here to stay.
“I am a shaper, but I really want to be a ‘company.’ I don’t want to be just a ‘backyard shaper’! Everyone starts somewhere, but my goals are set very high.”
If you are interested in surfboards that ‘breathe’, check out Loyd Surfboards at Solutions in Pismo Beach, Shell Beach Surf Shop, and Azhiaziam in Los Osos. Loyd Surfboards also has an exclusive dealer in Cayucos at Cesmat Surf. You can contact Gabriel at gabrielloyd@hotmail.com or 441-5103.
Posted November 2005 Blue Edge Magazine. All rights reserved.
October 2005 Issue
Tri-County Shapers' Spotlight
Shaper Spotlight: Todd Proctor
By Erynn Im
The evolution of Todd Proctor begins as the story of a skinny young boy who tagged along with his older friends to the beach. He was the grom who wasn’t so hot on the waves, and the older boys weren’t afraid to tease his lack of skill. Then one day, his neighbor let Todd try one of his boards, and all of a sudden he was surfing, surfing well. That’s when he realized that there’s something about surfboards that really affects how one surfs. At the age of 33, Todd now leads a life dedicated to helping others find their magic boards as a successful shaper with his own label, who’s laughing now?
Todd first learned how to shape from a book he checked out from the public library, titled How to Build a Surfboard. It was an old green book from the ‘70s that outlined the most elementary basics. Todd had been watching shapers for years and asking them questions, but most were always hesitant to share all their knowledge with him. He laughs now at his first steps in becoming the shaper he is today.
He took his first four shapes that he ever made to McCrystals in Oxnard to get them glassed. Though he was a little embarrassed, he was surprised by how impressed Casey McCrystal himself was. He was immediately offered a job and a couple years later, he was working alongside one of the shapers for the company Lost in San Clemente, handshaping boards for pro’s in his own shaping room. “I got feedback from the best surfers in the world…that kind of thing is priceless,” said Todd. He was gaining experience shaping a lot of different types and styles of boards. But in the back of his mind, the Central Coast was calling him, and soon enough, he realized that he had enough of a reputation to start his own line. His move to begin his own label was carefully calculated, and with the experience he gained from the industry thus far in his career, he began Proctor Surfboards in Ventura.
Customization is the key to Proctor’s success in the business. Every board that Proctor makes is as unique as the surfer riding it; the board has its own living, thriving soul. This is because Proctor takes the time to talk to each of his customers to assess and achieve each of their personal needs, whether they be professional surfers or retired businessmen who want a new hobby; there is no discrimination. Just like his neighbor who equipped him with the right board years ago, Proctor wants each of his customers to have the best board possible for the kind of surfing that they want to achieve. “It’s not like basketball where you just use any basketball,” Proctor said about surfing. “Boards are such an individual thing, it can make a huge difference what type you use.”
Proctor’s commitment to the most advanced technology and his state of the art factory allows him to produce his dream of individually specialized boards. When he first started his own label, he had ideas for some kind of computer system that could take any aspect of a board design and accurately customize it. Coincidentally, at this same time, Brazilian shaper Luciano Leao was in the throes of designing a system and machine that would revolutionize the world of shaping forever. Proctor went to Hawaii himself to check out the machine himself and even gave input as to how to improve the system. He was one of the first to own and use this program that allows for customized accuracy. The system records and adjusts the different design features that the board will have, and then sends the information to a machine that mills out the exact measurements. Proctor keeps a huge database of all the boards he’s ever handshaped, and this program can adjust each to the unique needs of his customer. After recording all of the customer’s information, Proctor handpicks the different design aspects from the database to create one, accurate, customized board. All of the customer’s information and their customized designs are then saved onto a disc. The customer can then come back to Proctor and say, “Hey, I really liked this one board, but I’ve gained 20 pounds,” and Proctor can accurately readjust the design but maintain its original functions. “It’s a new frontier in precision and design,” said Proctor. “People know what they’re getting every time.”
The production of his boards is also completely in-house, meaning that everything from the start to finish in making the boards is done within his factory. This insures the very best quality, best technology, and best customer service every step along the way. And unlike many shaping rooms, Proctor’s factory is impeccably clean, from the showroom all the way back to the airbrush room. The factory boasts a special filtering system that filters all the harmful vapors and brings in fresh air into the workplace. He’s just as meticulous with the business aspect of his shaping career as he is with the design.
Honesty and true love for the art of shaping is what keeps Proctor’s factory running and flourishing. With the loving support of his wife, Charissa, the two have created a business built on principles that is sure to stand the test of time. For more information on Proctor and his boards, visit www.proctorsurf.com.
Shaper Spotlight: Wayne Rich
Words and Photo by Branden Aroyan
Soul shaper. Master craftsman. Wayne Rich started shaping surfboards in Hermosa Beach in the late 70‚s, a protégé of Bendiksen. After spending years of just watching, Wayne began to use the tools himself to be involved in the art of making a board go where he wants to take it.
The beginning: “When I was a little kid growing up, I had to become a junior lifeguard or my parents wouldn't let me surf. They made me do it. I hated it at first. ‘But, if you‚re going to go down to the beach and be able to be down there we have to know you‚re not going to drown'‚ said my parents. All the famous surfers were lifeguards, Dewy Weber, all the main surfers. You can see it when something weird goes on or somebody's hurt. The people who notice it right away and are helping are the ones who understand the ocean better. It's going to depend on the people who are aware to keep people from getting hurt. It's ironic; the ones getting hurt are usually the ones dropping in on all of us. It's become a world of a free for all with surf schools and beginners and this and that. Then you have the good people who put in their time over the years."
Lifestyle: I don't consider surfing a sport. It's more of an interaction between people and the ocean. It's a rush, it's a way to get intense a way to get mellow. If it's pumping and it's crowded and you get one through it adds to the reward factor. If you had perfect waves all day by yourself you wouldn’t have the same drive. You'd be so free it didn’t matter if you blew it you'd just get another. When everyone's watching you’ve got to perform and hold yourself in order."
Respect: "The levels of respect are gained and earned by how well you can do what you are doing and how you go about doing it. Being able to help someone, how you act, if you're doing right or wrong, it comes from putting yourself in the right place at the right time and how intense you can be. I’ve always wanted to be in the core group, a surfer first and then a shaper."
Shaping: "It starts with what you want. ‘Form Follows Function’, said Frank Lloyd Wright. What are you looking for? They trust me to shape something that will work for the way they want to surf. That comes down to variations that are extremely subtle. So subtle, most people can't figure it out when they try and dissect a board to rip off your shape. It might not be in the actual contour, could be in the foil or the volume of the shape or in the fulcrum where you set the rocker forward of where you're compressing cause that will allow the board to change its angle of attack and so that it performs in a different way than what people might perceive it to do when they look at it. So there's a lot of tricky stuff going on in surfboards. I’ve put 30 years into knowing this and it's blowing my mind how much there is to know. And fins are equally important. I’ve shaped about 200 different fins over the years and most didn’t work. It's through R&D when the most awesome parts of ideas are extracted and combined to where they are most effective. To take the chance and go through all the problems and money and time and frustrations together with riders is where it comes from. All the friends are doing this together and it’s working on these ideas that validates them.
The future: Looking at boats and airplane wings. Getting the board to flex and bounce back in certain areas while adjusting the rocker. The shape the template and the foil of the fins too are a whole other thing with a lot more room for technology and experimenting. There are lots of variations we can keep doing and have a lot of fun with it.
The man: 14 yrs sober, Aircraft design background, most recent contest at C-street, 5 winners were riding his boards.
“The underground Lives”
Shaper Spotlight: Gabriel Loyd
Words and Photos by Vincent Shay
First impressions are everything. Walking into Gabriel Loyd’s shaping room gave me a first impression that I will not forget for some time. Vivid blues and greens under fiberglass give his boards a life of their own. A living, breathing entity that almost begs to find that perfect wave on its own. No rider needed. Central Coast board shaper Gabriel Loyd is a surfer and has been all his life. Born and raised around surfing, his philosophy has always been centered on the joy of the ocean and the form of a wave as art. Not a particularly competitive surfer, Loyd would rather be known as one to give a wave than to take one. He is the son of legendary photographer and board shaper Aaron Loyd. He learned early on that quality and the final product is the most important component to the art of shaping. Every shape begins from a raw blank and ends with the final polishing. Gabriel does everything and enjoys being in control of every facet of his shapes. Learning every aspect of the final product is his goal.
“A lot of people don‚t know that I do everything! From shaping, to glassing, to doing my own airbrushing!” he said.
In Pismo Beach his shapes stand apart not only because of the quality of his boards, but his unique airbrushing. Each board is a piece of art that seems to breathe, but even more than that, the creation seems to have a soul.
Loyd learned from the best. He credits his development to working with his father who shapes for Al Merrick and PJ Wahl, local Central Coast shapers. Both role models have been pivotal mentors in not only his personal life, but also for his passion for shaping surfboards. “When I go into shops, I check out every shape. I truly believe Al Merrick designs are the best. The quality of the boards and consistency of the shapes are what I model my own shapes from.”
Equally important is the feedback he gets from surfers who regularly surf his shapes. Always evolving and learning, a shaper fine-tunes his art form. This is the destination of every shaper and Loyd is no different.
None of Loyd's boards are pre-shaped digitally. He believes in the art of finding the shape. Like most of the artists I have met, Loyd truly believes the perfect shape is already in the blank; it‚s just up to the shaper to find it. Not to say that Loyd is against computer shapes, he just wants to truly learn and hone the art of shaping before he starts to utilize the computer.
Loyd's specialty board is his 'Miss Piggy‚ model. Not just the average short board, but also more of a high-performance hybrid model. He believes that boards in general are getting shorter with increased width and more curvature in the templates, especially in California. This philosophy is what drives his board designs.
Loyd is very excited about the future. Creating a business and working with his father is his goal and his passion for the industry is driven through his dedication to the art of creating a quality surfboard design. Loyd believes in hard work and a 'never give up‚ attitude' Loyd is here to stay.
“I am a shaper, but I really want to be a ‘company.’ I don’t want to be just a ‘backyard shaper’! Everyone starts somewhere, but my goals are set very high.”
If you are interested in surfboards that ‘breathe’, check out Loyd Surfboards at Solutions in Pismo Beach, Shell Beach Surf Shop, and Azhiaziam in Los Osos. Loyd Surfboards also has an exclusive dealer in Cayucos at Cesmat Surf. You can contact Gabriel at gabrielloyd@hotmail.com or 441-5103.
Posted October 2005 Blue Edge Magazine. All rights reserved.
September 2005 Issue
Shaper Spotlight: Robert Weiner
By Erynn Im
As an advocate of honest hard work, Robert Weiner, creator of Roberts Boards, has gradually and diligently etched his name in the shaping industry during the past decade. From where he stands now, as an established and well-respected shaper in Ventura, he considers himself blessed for the opportunities that have come his way. “I’ve been building boards full time for 16 years, and as a friend told me once, it takes 10 years to become an overnight success,” said Weiner.
He attributes the continued innovativeness and success of his boards to his large team of “incredibly great riders who give me great feedback about the quality of my boards.” His team of pro and amateur surfers includes Sean Hayes, Pete Rocky, Keith Neary, Kai and Kellon Ellison, and more. “A lot of feedback from those guys helps me get my shapes where they’re at,” said Weiner.
For example, Weiner recently worked with one of his pro riders, Adam Veers, to produce one of his latest designs. “We went out to the lake, got in a boat that puts out about a two foot wave, and we did some surfboard testing behind the boat to watch the way the boards rode.” Weiner gathered information from this experiment and then designed a small board that would surf well on small waves. In the past, pro surfers have won events on Weiner’s shapes, and in fact, Weiner himself won his second national title on the tenth board he ever shaped.
From age eight Weiner was immediately fascinated by the world of surfing, especially surfboard design. He bought his first Surfer Magazine, and from that point on, he read everything he could, accumulating a strong understanding of surfboard designs. He shaped his first board when he was 12 and later worked in a factory in Oxnard where he glassed, sanded, thinned, “did every aspect, learning from the bottom up.” He calls the next years from there “a natural progression to the level I’m at now…God opened some doors and things fell into place.” Weiner’s been committed to a career in shaping for the past eleven years, and has built a successful business around his label, Roberts Boards.
His specialization lies in shortboards, with most of his designs geared toward high performance. Ninety seven percent of his boards are pre–shaped digitally. In the past, Weiner says that the use of computers in shaping was actually frowned upon because people thought the machines were doing all the work sans the craftsmanship of the shaper. “You would become stereotyped as a sellout and that’s sad because it was state of the art technology.” Now the surfing community has become more educated in the use of computers. “I feel like my shaping now is at a point where everything is more technical, working out bugs in design. Now everything we do is fine–tuning.” He now produces consistent high-performance boards.
What has allowed Weiner to stay in the shaping business successfully for so long, he says, is the hard work and strong ethics he stands by. “I don’t mind getting dirty and working with my hands,” said Weiner. “Most kids [new shapers] that I see nowadays, once they see what hard work it is, they’ll get discouraged and give up.” Many misconceive shaping to be glamorous, super profitable, and a profession that allows a lot of surf time. “But words of wisdom” warned Weiner, “it’s a lot of hard work.” When he first started, he was making his own hours and surfing a lot, but now that he’s running a business on a bigger scale, his surf time has been cut shorter than he would like.
And now on top of his shaping, Weiner is also working with one of his pro-riders, Sean Hayes, to produce a movie. Titled Underground, the film is a documentary on the Roberts Boards team riders. The film is scheduled to be released this fall in local surf shops.
The focal point in all his work is to “continually strive to build a better product, work real hard, and gain trust from the surfers I deal with.” His logo, which is an arrow shape with a fish symbol at the top, represents Christ as the center. “Without Christ in my life, I feel like I wouldn’t have a business or a logo, so I put him at the top. I’m really thankful for everything I’ve had.” Roberts Boards is located in Ventura, call (805) 658–6855 for more information.
Posted September 2005 Blue Edge Magazine. All rights reserved.
August 2005 Issue
To Snake or not to Snake
By Craig Comen
So you want to catch more waves and feed your cravings? Are you prepared to be a snake, drop in and hassle for the opportunity, or are you going to go about it respectfully, and position yourself creatively?
Like driving, waiting in line, and appearing in any public arena, surfing has it’s rules, etiquette, and norms to follow and obey. Maybe starting with a question to you is a good measure. Will catching more and better waves then the next guy bring me more happiness? Safe to say most of us will say yes, but we can go about it a little differently then the one who is hassling, paddling around, and dropping in. We have all done it, whether by accident or blatantly, and we know what it is like to have it done to us. Not cool. Most of all it is dangerous and unnecessary. Have you ever been hit by a board or your own? It hurts a bit and can cause even major injury. Most of us are just not good enough to ride a wave with another person on it, and in today’s world of lawsuits and medical bills it is probably a good idea to be safe and calculated to some degree. Try to make it a golden rule not to drop in on anyone. This means also to give them the benefit of the doubt when racing a section, or attempting a maneuver. Snaking can be defined many ways, and not just by dropping in. Paddling around, taking off behind in the whitewater, and pushing the wave down can also be interferences in any rulebook, competition or not. Wait your turn, position yourself accordingly, and be wise with how you space yourself in the line-up. With this vision you will never need to be fading anyone into the pit. You can hold your head high and feel good that you are upholding an age-old tradition of etiquette and grace.
Posted August 2005 Blue Edge Magazine. All rights reserved.
