So how does one discover “the real Bali” these days? I mean typically one books a hotel rents a car and sits in a Westernized version of Bali for a week or two and if lucky gets tiny, diluted doses of indigenous culture. What if you want to go where there are not so many surfers and tourists? Maybe take that road less traveled? Out of my years of travel experience, here is a little of what I have learned regarding Bali.

When you land at Denpassar, have $25 American cash in pocket. It is for your entry visa. (When you leave, exit is 200 rupia). Then go pick up your bags. If you have nice little chalk exes on your luggage it is marked for search. You have several choices here:

1.Ignore the exes, get searched and likely have to pay a tout or bribe as we call them here (clerks generally keep part or all of it, depending on what they are able to talk you into)
2. Wipe off the chalk mark if no one is looking.
3.Employ a porter or group of porters who if you point out the chalk marks will generally slide you through.

I have done all three. It is an icky experience and a strange way for a Westerner to be introduced to Indonesia. But it is what it is.

Now legally in Bali, you need transport. Taxi is not a bad deal initially. But you must have an idea of where you want to go. Historically surfers always head up to the Bukit Peninsula, home to Uluwatu, Padang Padang and a host of famous spots Jim Banks helped pioneer. Great surf, lots of crowds, lots of surf tourism activity. It is a typical surf tourism destination. Unless you like the crowds of Rincon or Malibu or Trestles you may want to go somewhere else.

Pick a locale you are interested in and book a driver. Driving is dangerous in Bali. You do need an international drivers license to operate any motor vehicle. You get those at the DMV or AAA here in the states. Local drivers generally go for between $35 and $50 US dollars per day. (Vehicle and gas included for the most part.) A good driver knows Balinese culture, the ins and outs of the myriad number of holidays which often create travel complications, and best of all can direct you into a variety of “homestay” accommodations. This sort of lodging is very abundant in Bali and varies widely in service and quality. But basically you can get a standard of accommodation that would cost 500 a day in a Western style resort for $20-$50 per night. We frequently find great accommodations for $5-$10 per night.

Surf is where you find it. Bali is a series of islands and there can be surf everywhere. Your driver, and a decent knowledge of internet surf forcasting, can land you in the right locale at the right time without much trouble.

Bali is primarily Hindu and is therefore a Karma based society. So you get back what you put out, in a manner of speaking. A smile goes a very long way in Bali and will cover a multitude of cultural blunders common to Westerners. Here again, your driver can help ease the cultural crevasse. A good driver will be very motivated to share everything about Indonesia with you.

Travel safety is an issue within Indonesia. Register your travel itinerary with the State Department. When in Bali avoid restaurants and places frequented by Westerners and the risk goes down. The Karma thing allows for a certain amount of craziness to exist but I do know that the Balinese hate the few random bombings and those who engaged in them. Several times we found that places were earmarked for bombings. Though extremely rare, it can happen. Use prudence and you avoid the potential.

Drug use. Don’t do it. Don’t bring any in. Don’t take anything offered to you. Lock and secure your luggage. Keep everything with you and in eyesight at all times when passing through airports. Penalties are stiff. Capital punishment exists. Over time people have been executed for it. Including Westerners. Do you feel lucky, or are you just stupid? The end effect will be the same if you are caught.

All of the islands off Bali are available via various ferry companies through the local ports. Again, your driver can book it for you and often suggest homestays where you are headed. We found multiple great places on Nusa Lembongan, which is a short hour plus ride out of Sanur. These islands are a great option for cleaner water and more pristine conditions.

As in any geographic location, things are cleanest where there are less people. Western Bali, (Legian) is less populated than the East Coast and is surf rich. Avoid rivermouths in populous locales. They are the worst of the worst in terms of disease potential.

Inland locales such as Ubud and many other places are incredibly rich in culture and actually not that far from the beach. It sort of all depends on what road you choose for your trip.

Check out Lonely Planet guides for a glimpse into what your options are. Book your flight, (EVA Air is a great Indo carrier, as is Singapore Air) and go, and in so doing go well, as a guest, willing to contribute to this remarkable places recovery from the acts of a few misguided fools. Contrary to what you read in contemporary media, a decent human being is the single best agent of positive change in the third world. Plus, it will be an adventure and a lot of fun.