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February 2007 Issue
Chris Brown: Well Rounded Surfer
BY Chuck Graham
Photos by: Huglin and S. Gibson
Walking up from the bottom of the cove at Rincon, I watched a familiar figure in a familiar zone get utterly drained on a low tide barrel driving for the yellow call box. Silhouetted in a timeless backlit green curl, Chris Brown emerged several seconds later from yet another text book Rincon gem.
When he hit the beach, "Brownie" was characteristically brimming with an enthusiastic stoke he’s carried with him since his days as a rising star in the amateur ranks of the ancient Western Surfing Association (WSA) and the ultra competitive National Scholastic Surfing Association (NSSA)in the mid 1980s. Those endless weekends of slogging it out in southern California slop served him well when he exploded on the U.S. Bud Tour of the Professional Surfing Association of America (PSSA). Into the next decade he proceeded to wax his peers up and down the coast and beyond. Eventually he found himself atop of the ratings in 1993, and qualified for the Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP) World Championship Tour (WCT) through the World Qualifying Series (WQS).
Brownie, now 36, is one of the best big wave chargers on the west coast whether he’s paddling in at Mavericks or slung into a behemoth on a jet ski at Shark Park. However, while reading this interview you’ll find one of the most grateful surfers around, who’s experienced a bit of everything in his surfing career.
In the 1980s you were one of the fastest rising stars on the amateur circuit. What were some of your highlights leading up to the pro tour?
I competed in two world amateur championships, the first at Fistral Beach in England in 1986 where I finished 13th, and in 1988 at Puerto Rico, where I won the juniors division. I was 17 at the time and that was a real breakthrough for me. It was funny because I wasn’t thinking about turning pro at the time, but when it happened I realized this was a big break for me. There was no better time as far as the financial end of it to capitalize and run with it, turn pro and see where it leads me. If it lasted one year, great! I just knew that was my chance, so my pops drove me around and we had meetings with different companies. At the time Bob Hurley was the licensee for Billabong in America, and he had the best offer. I also signed
with Rip Curl Wetsuits. Just like that, I was 17 and turned pro. I think between the two deals I got $1000.00 a month.
It just didn’t pay then like it does now. That was my start, but surfing has grown as a sport. Back then that was a lot of money. It was a dream come true for me. I had no overhead, so off I went.
Which pro tour did you begin on?
The Bud Tour was coming into what I called its 'golden years' then. It was established with a large number of events in California, and a good opportunity to make money. I also competed on the WQS, and Al Merrick sent me off to compete in Japan and the Gotcha Pro in Hawaii. That was back when the ASP still held trials. He sent me to get some experience, and it was my first big trip away from home. It was an abrupt transition going from a child to an adult. Off I went into the big world, hanging out with my heroes.
Who were they?
Tom Curren, Martin Potter, Tom Carroll and Sunny Garcia, who wasn’t much older than me, but already an established pro and one of my top 5 favorites.
How long did you compete on the Bud Tour?
It was a good thing for American surfers. It provided a stage, a stepping stone for young surfers that wanted to go to the world tour but maybe not quite ready yet, or for surfers not good enough for the international level, but could still be decent on a local level, so I did that for four years when I was 21. It was also when the world tour went to the different format and formed the 'QS and the 'CT. The year I decided to make a serious effort on the ASP Tour was 1992, and I qualified for the 'CT. At the time the Bud Tour was part of the 'QS. I got good results in Australia, Portugal and Brazil. Those three results cinched it for me, not to mention my results at home. In 1993 I won the Bud Tour, and surfed the 'QS and the 'CT. I was definitely a competitive workhorse.
What were your years like on the CT?
I surfed on the 'CT for three years. My first year was my best year and I finished 23rd. The following two years didn’t go well and I finished around 40th, but I re-qualified in the 'QS for a fourth year. I knew my results were mediocre so I backed them up on the 'QS. However, I walked away. I lost my sponsor, MCD. The combination of losing my sponsor and my daughter Chloe being born, I decided to walk away. I felt like I’d reached a level, the peak of my ability, and I wasn’t a champion, so I felt I’d gone as far as I could go. I wanted to move on and be around my daughter
What did you do after leaving the CT?
There was still some Bud Tour left, and I got picked up by Hawaiian Islands Creations in 1996. They paid me a salary to stay home and it extended my career for a couple more years.
Then there was that new page in your career, and you landed on the cover of Surfing Magazine in 1998.
That was a lucky twist of fate. It got me another year on my contract. It was at Mavericks in their June 1998 issue, free-falling at the take-off on a 20 footer.
When did you make that transition from contest machine to surfing big waves?
For starters, I was never a big wave charger. I like it all, big or small waves. I don’t pitch myself as a big wave rider or a contest guy. The media will put a label on you and rightfully so. I always looked at myself as doing it all. That’s what my heroes did and I strove to be like that. Growing up for me, it was my weakness, so as I got older I tried to improve on that.
So what happened on that wave?
I’d been putting in my time actually before that. I wasn’t trying to be a hero. Believe me, that wasn’t all a good memory (laughs). I did wipe out on that wave. The glory is all good, but reality can be different.
Is that wipeout still vivid?
It’s one of the ones I remember for sure. I’d been surfing Mavs since 1994. I’ve had a bunch of falls out there, but three stand out. There was the cover shot, and another paddle-in and a tow-in wipeout. The worst was the second paddle-in. I fell and got blasted by five waves and went through the rocks. It’s a killer spot. The consequences are so serious. You’ve really got to be focused in on your game.
What was your fist session like?
When I first went to Mavs, it was pretty shocking. My first session was the day Jay Moriarty got that cover shot. I was in that pic sitting on the shoulder. I was the deer in the headlights. I didn’t catch a wave that day. At that point I was reevaluating what was important to me in surfing and in life. I was wondering, am I up for this? I kind of left with my tail between my legs. Then [Mark] Foo died that same week and only added to what was going on in my head. I didn’t go back that season. I waited the whole next year to see where I was at. The first day I returned, it was smaller. I caught waves and boosted my confidence; baby steps toward what I wanted to accomplish. I took the advice of my mentors and looked at their approach. Not everyone was a reckless charger. A lot of guys were really calculated about it. I took notice of that and went at my own pace. Up through 1998 I was on every swell, put in a lot of sessions, caught a lot of waves and learned about the place. When I got the cover, that was a big moment for me. It was definitely a highlight.
How did you get into tow surfing?
After the cover, I didn’t just stop going up there. I do it because I love it, it’s where the challenge lies. So in 1999, that’s when tow-in surfing came into effect around here. Mavs was the place. I remember distinctly the first day it was towed. Dan Moore and Ken Bradshaw were there, and Moore got the cover of Surfer. I watched from the beach. In my mind it revolutionized the sport. It amazed me how easily these guys were tackling these waves on such small boards, performing better, and the success rate went up.
Anthony Tashnick, a young up and comer from up there, who won the Mavs contest one year, slung me into my first waves. He actually did great. He put me into one of the heaviest waves I’ve ever ridden, behind the peak on a 20 footer. I actually got scared and faded left because I was so far behind the peak.
Who is your tow-in partner now?
I’ve got a few of them, but I’ve been towing regularly with my boss, Cappy Pettersen. He’s a great surfer and waterman. I work on his urchin boat tending. He’s an underground legend. Towing in is a team sport. You want to be able to give back just as much as you’re taking. Cap has done so much for me, so I want to get him the best waves possible.
Where else are you towing in?
Mouse Rock and Shark Park. Also training with another partner, Eric Akiskalian (TowSurfer.com) at places like Mugu and Hueneme where no people are around.
Who’s making your boards these days?
John Roddenberry of JHR Surfboards. A few years ago I was in between sponsors. I realized with my knowledge and his craftsmanship, he could make me what I needed. It’s worked out like I expected.
Any goals in place for towing in?
My goal is to stay alive (laughs). To be safe, have fun and spread the stoke to the next generation not only in surfing but in life; to be a good ambassador .
But do you have this goal to ride something you haven’t already?
Maybe. Last year was the peak of my surfing career, it was the best of my life as far as surfing goes. I landed another Surfing cover, this time at Mouse Rock, got the biggest barrel of my life at Mavs, and we pioneered Weener's Reef. The reef at Shark Park, named after Jimmy Robinson. That was his nickname. He was killed by a white shark there in 1994. Cappy, Josh Bradbury and I pioneered it. I also signed with Quiksilver and Revolution Surf Shop.
I’m still a pro surfer living my dream. As far as accomplishing something new, I’d like to push it a little further, pull into the tube a little deeper. Then again, lets be honest, this stuff is dangerous and so with regards to safety, I have fears.
I think being scared keeps things real.
And it also keeps you safe. If you’re scared, there’s a reason, and it’s your body’s way of telling you you’re in danger (laughs). I want to do this for the long run, so I don’t want to do anything stupid.
Anyone you’d like to thank?
God, my folks, Chloe Brown, Jenny Culver, Tina Culver, Nathan Brown, Heather King, Cappy Petterson, Double Edge, Josh Bradbury, Al Merrick, Strider Wasilewski and Willy Morris at Quiksilver, Johnny and Jesse at Revolution Surf Shop, John Roddenberry at JHR Surfboards, Eric Akiskalian at TowSurfer.com, Mike and Lucy Borello at Tony’s Pizza, Scott and Arti Stanley at Esaus Coffee Shop, Rincon pit crew, Bobby McKinley, and all my other family and friends.
Posted February 2007 Blue Edge Magazine. All rights reserved.