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August 2006 Issue
Surf Specific Kayak
By Terry Lilly
I have been a surfer for over 45 years and my father was one of the pioneer surfers in California. He helped start the San Onofre Surf Club and learned to surf from the Duke himself. Growing up at San Onofre with Corky Carol, Mickey Munos and Mickie Dora, I got to be a part of the surfing evolution. My fist board was a ten foot balsa board and I had one of the first surf leashes. I rode the first Corky Carroll mini model that was 8’6”. My mom surfed on a blow up mattress and my fifth board was a 5’3” fish twin fin. Boogie boards came on the scene and several surfers rode waves on dug out canoes. Surfing thrived on any new invention in the line up, that someone could ride a wave with and we all respected the new guy with the new wave riding machine. Surfing is still evolving today and I still respect the new guy in the lineup who can ride a wave with some new invention under his feet, belly or rear.
One big day last winter in front of my house in Shell Beach, I paddled out on my 7’6 Shane Stoneman at my local outside reef. As I paddled out I saw some guy on what looked like a modified snow sled that I used to ride as a kid at Mammoth Mountain. He made an incredibly late drop sitting on this new type of small surf kayak. He powered off a huge bottom turn then went almost upside down in the tube and pulled it off! He was doing everything I wish I could do on my 7’6. He made more waves in critical places than any stand up surfer could possibly pull off. That day I met Vince Shay, the guy riding the new surf invention: the Surf Specific Kayak. I had seen others ride surf kayaks in the past, but none with the ability to control a kayak better than one can control a surfboard. That day I decided to interview Vince and find out what he was all about. I hope you enjoy the interview.
Hi Vince. I am used to seeing you out here on your short board. What the heck are you riding these days?
I have been a surfer all my life and never saw myself riding a surf kayak! Most kayakers I saw in the lineup were simply out of control. A few years ago I was introduced to a “Surf Specific Kayak”.
How does it ride?
The new generation of surf kayaks are incredible. Very maneuverable and the designs are evolving at a high rate, especially in the last few years. The kayak I am surfing now, I designed with the help of well known surfboard shaper Dave Johnson of Progressive Surfboards. It has been a team effort in designing this new “Reaction” kayak.
I have seen other surf kayakers out here in the line up with board surfers and it seemed to me that the two groups didn’t get along to well.
Yes, there is some friction when you mix the two groups together. There are surf spots that kayakers may not be welcome in the line up and good common sense is needed. Some kayakers feel like “you just can’t keep me out of the lineup,” but sometimes there is a safety issue. It cuts both ways because I have seen my fair share of beginning surfers that were totally out of control. Usually surfers and kayakers can weed out the beginners and inform them were to surf. The kayakers need to respect this process. Since kayak surfing is growing in a rapid rate there will be more interactions. I have kayak surfed in five different countries so far and have competed in many contests right along with good surfers.
What do you think the future is of these new “Surf Specific Kayaks”?
The sport is growing and it is all about dynamic moves--aerials and deep barrels while really surfing a wave. The surf kayak designs are now very defined with tri fin setups or quad systems. This helps with keeping in control. The new kayaks are light, strong and short.
I feel positive that the surf kayak community is doing a lot of self regulating. I feel that a lot of board surfers do not yet understand how hard we are on our own kayak community. It is all about education and exposure and we do not want to be banned or regulated in the line up. Surf kayaks have the performance now, and we need to bring up the awareness with the board surfers. It is all about being a total waterman and we can all get along together. Keep an open mind as we are all stoked on the beauty of the ocean. Just remember to be safe and respect all others in the lineup.
For more info on these new “Surf Specific Kayaks” you can contact Vince Shay at vince@2point media at www.vinceshay.com and for more cool surf shots you can go to Terry’s web at www.pbase.com/lilley.
Posted August 2006 Blue Edge Magazine. All rights reserved.