« Previous Story | Front Page | Next Story »
May 2006 Issue
A Day in the Life of a Grom
By Grey Lockwood
Photo: Will Russ
![]()
What is a grom? Is there an actual definition for the word “Grom”? Well yes, and no, depending on who you talk to. Some people, such as NSSA contest directors, will tell you that once a surfer has reached 18 years old he or she is no longer considered a grom. Then you have Surfing Magazines “Hot 100” which showcases “groms” under the age of 20 years old. On the other hand, many people that surf only for fun say that age doesn’t matter when deciding whether or not someone is a still a “grom”. It’s all in the mindset when you go for a surf. If you are in your mid-50’s and still get stoked on freezing cold dawn patrols or four hour super-sessions at your favorite waveriding venue, then you qualify.
So what is it like to be a grom these days? Being 26, I don’t consider myself an authority on the issue, but I can say I’m confident in telling you that times they are a changin’. Being first and foremost a photographer, I spend more time dragging kids out of bed, listening to the latest drama, and hanging out at contests than I care to talk about. Parents have become a huge part of making surfing an acceptable family sport just like little league baseball or AYSO soccer. Pro surfing has become a legitimate career and this has lured many kids into chasing their dreams of getting paid to surf all day. So do these kids go to school? Sure, but it’s usually only when the waves are small. Of all the kids in this issue, I think only 1 out of 5 actually attends normal public school. This leaves weekends free of homework and open for traveling up and down the coast for contests and other surfing related activities.
Back in the day being a grom meant hanging out at the beach on weekends, eating junk food, and causing trouble all over town. These days many of the kids in the under 17 category are making six figure salaries by the time they graduate high school. Days are filled with training by top level surf instructors, personal trainers and nutritionists. Many of the amateur contests include a Pro division that usually hands out more for first prize than a top level pro was making in the 80’s.
I called up a couple kids and asked them what a normal day was like for them and this is what I got. Usually wake up between 6:00-7:00am and check the buoys on the computer to see which direction the swell was coming from. Head north or south and depending on direction and find some waves. One thing I can assure you is that when these kids get together its not all fun and games. They are constantly pushing each other in the water even if it is only for bragging rights. They are doing things on surfboards that would make Duke Kahanamoku roll over in his grave. After a surf it’s time to find the nearest donut shop and see who can inhale the most sugar before surf session number two. If the wind has come up then maybe a little school work will get done. Other things you can find these kids doing might include playing drums, shaping boards, doing ding repair, or my personal favorite, chasing girls!!! Then it’s back to the beach for at least one more session before the dinner bell rings.
Having some of the best waves in California within twenty miles of each other has helped many kids push their surfing to levels that most of us could only hope to achieve. But, having local names like Curren, Bobby, Dane, and TImmy to look up to has proven to be a huge factor in showing groms that surfing for a living is possible if you are willing to put in the time and effort it takes to succeed. So are these kids putting all of their eggs in one basket? Well, not necessarily. many of these kids are going full board and really want to succeed as professionals, but they also realize that getting an education is the most important part of being a grom. Some already have jobs working for their sponsors which could lead to full time jobs in the surf industry.
There is one thing in common with all these kids. They are all so stoked to live the lives they do and for the most part they realize how lucky they are to be a part of the surfing community. The sport we call surfing has evolved with every passing year and it will continue to do so until the end of time. So whether you’re a seven year old girl standing up for the first time on a Doyle or a sixty year old man with decades of wave riding under your belt, the feeling of walking on water will never change. I’m grateful to see what these kids are accomplishing and I am excited to see what the future has in store for them. So now that I’ve told you about what it’s like being a grom these days ask yourself one question, what’s you definition of grom?
Posted May 2006 Blue Edge Magazine. All rights reserved.