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August 2005 Issue

Hidden Beneath the Waves

Words and Photographs by Jack Drake

As I sank into the depths off the waters of Santa Cruz Island, I gazed upward as five of my students drifted downward. Their eyes were wide as they looked around at this underwater playground of kelp forests, graceful rays, colorful sea stars and delicate anemones. One of the ladies gave an exuberant squeal as a curious harbor seal glided by and peered into her facemask.

"Welcome to my world," I thought as I introduced my latest students to the beauty, fascination and adventure that lies waiting hidden in the depths off the coast of Central California.

I am frequently asked, "What are my favorite dive spots?"

The ocean is vibrant . . . the constantly changing currents, water temperature and passing overhead waves give the submerged reefs a pulse that makes each descent different and full of anticipation. I visit the following locations frequently, and have rarely been disappointed.

Refugio State Beach, located 15 miles north of Santa Barbara on Highway 101, is the spot I always take my students for their first beach scuba dive. Meaning refuge in Spanish, the cove is generally protected from large waves. I can usually count on calm waters and visibility of at least 10 - 15 feet. Dive the east end of the park where a thick kelp bed can be found. The gradually sloping bottom provides for easy entries. Between the inner and outer kelp beds, is a large underwater ledge running parallel to the beach. Follow the ledge to the east and look closely in all the recesses of the ledge. Inside the crevasses hide fish, crabs and scary looking swell sharks. Take your time as you swim along to notice all the critters. The observant diver can spot colorful marine snails known as nudibranchs, tiny brittle stars as well as sunstars that can be up to two feet in diameter.

Naples Reef is one of those out of the way spots that relatively few divers have explored. Located 13 miles up the coast from Santa Barbara and one mile offshore, the only way to visit this pristine location is by boat or kayak. If the current is not running, the reef is marked by a kelp forest located off the old orchard onshore. Boat depth finders will indicate a consistent depth of 50 feet, and then jump abruptly to 20 feet once over the reef. If the kelp is not visible, the current is up and running, so exercise caution . . . it can reach speeds up to four to five knots.

The reef consists of a series of ledges that run parallel to shore. These formations provide great opportunities to explore a fascinating labyrinth of cracks, crevices, overhangs and walls.

Because Naples is located so far offshore, it is washed by frequent currents, which can provide exceptionally clear water . . . 40 feet is not uncommon. Keep your eyes scanning the open water around you and you will have a good chance of spotting the Pelagia jellyfish. If you are diving the deeper portions of the reef in 70 feet of water, you might be lucky enough to spot a gray whale swim overhead. On one occasion, I had returned to the boat to reload my cameras. As I was about to roll into the water, a large gray whale surfaced no more than 20 feet away. The creature gave an explosive exhalation through its blowhole and then descended back into the depths as powerful sweeps of his tail boiled the water around me. If only I had been in the water a moment earlier.

The reef known as Mesa Lane is located 200 yards east of Arroyo Burro Beach in Santa Barbara. This popular dive spot consists of a series of jagged reefs in approximately 20 - 30 feet of water. Some of the rocky projections rise six feet from the bottom. A variety of critters take shelter in the hidden recesses of these reefs.

Expect to find a lot of intriguing sea hares. These aquatic snails can get up to two feet long and display fascinating behavior. If a diver picks up a sea hare and gently prods its body, the creature will emit a profuse cloud of purple ink. It is also not uncommon to see a group of sea hares in a subsea orgy. Sea Hares are hermaphroditic which means that they can play the male role or female role in the act of reproduction and they can perform both at the same time. I have seen a group of up to eight sea hares piled on top of each other.

Diving the California Channel Islands will provide a lifetime of diving adventure. When diving the islands I prefer to use the small charter boat dive companies that provide a personalized visit to the fabulous reefs surrounding these islands. Captain Ron of Ocean Sports Private Charters has been diving the islands for thirty years and knows all the best places to explore, catch game, and find unique marine life for underwater photographers. Captain Ron's boat, the 42-foot long Miss Devin, takes out groups of six to eight divers and can anchor on smaller, pristine reefs that are inaccessible to the large charter boats carrying 40 plus divers. Captain Ron can be reached at (805) 736-3272

Scorpion Anchorage located on the front side of Santa Cruz Island's east end is full of delightful surprises. This location will provide protected diving waters in almost all weather conditions. Thousands of small brittle starts inhabit the sand bottom . . . their arms extended upward to catch tiny morsels of food as they drift by.

Little Scorpion is an excellent spot to find rays. I love watching the flight of the graceful bat rays as they undulate their "wings" upward and downward. Electric rays, also known as torpedo rays, are also frequently spotted. Look but don't touch. I was once "shocked" by an electric ray when I playfully held my air hose underneath its body as it swam by and I let off a stream of air bubbles to tickle its belly. The torpedo ray was not amused and sent a powerful jolt downward. It was a terrific shock, and I wasn't even touching the creature.

Look for the cave in the rocky promontory that separates Scorpion Anchorage from Little Scorpion. It is easy to find, and has two entrances. Divers can snorkel through the cavern or use scuba. You can't get lost. Be careful of the surge, however, that can move through the cave . . . it can be quite strong, so visit the cave on a calm day.

Divers can also explore the wreckage of the 136-foot long World War II minesweeper, the Peacock, that sank at Scorpion in the late 1970's. Although most of the structure has collapsed over the years, the remains are covered with sea stars, chestnut cowries, nudibranchs, anemones, tunicates, barnacles and bryozoans. It is a haven for underwater photographers equipped with a close-up lens.

I have logged more bottom time at Gull Rock on the backside of Santa Cruz Island than any spot at the Channel Islands. This small islet lies one mile offshore and always seems to have a mild current running that maintains consistently clear water. The rocky shoreline is inhabited by a large colony of sea lions that love nothing better than to come out and greet visiting divers. I have frequently been engulfed in a swarm of sea lions that seem to be performing an erratic, fast paced ballet to some unknown score of music. There have been times when these overly friendly pinipeds have interfered with my underwater photography and I have had to move to a new location.

The rugged reefs of Gull Rock are home for numerous Garibaldi. These bright orange fish become quite bold during mating season. I remember one of my dives at Gull Rock in which I came too close to the "nest" where a Garibaldi had laid its eggs. The furious Garibaldi swam frantically around me as it created loud popping sounds with its mouth. When that did not drive me away, the fish became more desperate and literally began ramming into my chest in an attempt to get me to leave.

One of the most spectacular dives at the California Channel Islands is Wycoff Ledge on the south side of San Miguel Island. The top of the ledge runs in an east - west direction in approximately 30 feet of water. The thrill comes when a diver reaches the edge of the reef and peers down the vertical face of the reef as it disappears into the blue abyss. A final kick of the fins sends the diver gliding down a rock face to the bottom at a depth of 120 feet. The wall is adorned with colorful sponges, delicate gorgonian corals, and petite orange cup corals. Bring along a flashlight so that you can look deep into the labyrinth of large cracks and fissures and spot the large fish and other critters hiding far back in the recesses. The beam of your light might even spot a shy octopus.

San Miguel is the most westward of the California Channel Islands and is subjected to potentially strong northwest winds and swells. Wycoff Ledge, however is well protected and frequently provides visibility reaching 60 to 80 feet. Photographers will enjoy the diverse marine life. Adventurers will revel in the falling / flying sensation as they glide up and down the vertical walls of this underwater monolith.

I returned my attention to the five students kneeling on the sand bottom. I could see they were anxious to go exploring. But first I needed to run them through a final check-out of their scuba skills.

A short time later, all I could see were their kicking fins as they disappeared into the kelp forest. Welcome to my world.

Posted August 2005 Blue Edge Magazine. All rights reserved.

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